Updated March 30, 2023 at 8:29 AM ET

The work of Haitian artist Myrlande Constant is getting attention at the top of the contemporary art world. Her meticulously embroidered flags, known as drapos, were featured at the Venice Biennale last year, and she just wrapped up a New York gallery exhibition.

Now with a new show at UCLA's Fowler Museum, Constant becomes the first Haitian woman to have a solo show in a major U.S. Museum. Her work challenges the dominant narrative that Haiti is a place of chaos and despair.

Jerry Philogene, an Associate Professor of American Studies at Dickinson College, co-curated the show. She says she when she first saw it, she was mesmerized by the work.

"I saw each bead individually sewn to create an image, to outline a shape, to create eyes, create lips, create even colored nails. And I thought of the labor it takes to do that, intense labor. The intense hand and eye coordination was amazing."

Constant covers every inch of fabric with thousands of glass beads and sequins to create glittering scenes using symbols and imagery from her vodou faith. Many of the pieces are almost sculptural in texture and depth. Constant's art is the work of many hands, with as many as ten people working on a single drapo together.

"To provide a space where people can actually come together and work on a project collectively is providing a safe haven for the difficulties that are existing right now in Haiti," says Philogene. "That sense of knowing that you're creating something that is in a way bigger than yourself and goes beyond who you are in Haiti."

Constant left a Haitian wedding dress factory more than 30 years ago and began to apply her skills to sewing drapos, which had been a male-dominated craft. She changed tradition by adding glass beads and sequins. She also hired other women who had left the dress factory and taught them to create their own vodou drapo.

Constant considers her artistic practice to be a gift that comes from her ancestral spirits.

"There are some people who think we are in the business of selling the image of the lwa (spirits)," Constant says in a film that accompanies the Fowler Museum show. "But we don't sell their image. We work with them, because the spirits are always with us. We don't see them but they are all around us. All over the world."

As Constant's art is gaining international recognition, Haiti is sinking deeper into political instability and violence. There are no elected leaders in Haiti's parliament. Schools and hospitals are closing, and the national police are outgunned by gangs which control much of the capital, Port-au-Prince. Hunger is widespread throughout the country.

In fact, Constant was unable to get a visa to attend the opening of her show due to this instability. Still, Constant is dedicated to depicting Haiti as more than a country in despair, as in her piece about the catastrophic 2010 earthquake.

"She does not show us dead, disposable black bodies," says Jerry Philogene. "She shows us in this particular piece people burying their dead people trying to get folks out of burnt buildings, out of destroyed buildings, people kneeling and crying and asking for help. Families feeding each other."

She sees hope in the work.

"There is also the possibility of a different type of future, and her work is helping us imagine what that future might look like. A future that is both honoring the sacred and the secular."

Katherine Smith, a lecturer in the Department of World Arts and Cultures at UCLA and co-curator of the show, said that Constant does not allow her life or her art to be defined by the structural violence around her.

"She is well aware of these things, but she also works on another plane. Like, that's not the whole existence for her, and maybe that's where liberation is in her work."

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Transcript

SACHA PFEIFFER, HOST:

Haitian textile artist Myrlande Constant is catching the eye of the contemporary art world. A retrospective of her work just opened at UCLA's Fowler Museum. It's billed as the first solo show for a Haitian woman in an American museum. NPR's Alice Woelfle has more.

ALICE WOELFLE, BYLINE: Myrlande Constant has upended the male-dominated world of sewing voodoo flags or drapos. Using thousands of sequins and glass beads, she stitches intricate, glittering scenes of Haitian life and history. Her tapestries, some as wide as nine feet, are filled with symbols and imagery from her voodoo faith. Jerry Philogene, co-curator of the Fowler show, says she was totally taken aback the first time she saw Constant's work.

JERRY PHILOGENE: There were these beautiful light bouncing off of the glass, bouncing off of the sequins. And I was just mesmerized by the radiance - the radiance of the work.

WOELFLE: As Constant's star rises, Haiti is sinking deeper into violence. The political instability there prevented Constant from getting a visa to attend the opening of her show. But despite the challenges, Constant says she does not want to leave Haiti. Her voodoo faith keeps her rooted there. Here she is speaking from her studio in the hills above Port au Prince.

(SOUNDBITE OF ARCHIVED RECORDING)

MYRLANDE CONSTANT: (Through interpreter) There are some people who think we are in the business of selling the image of the spirits, but we don't. We work with them because the spirits are always with us. We don't see them, but they are all around us.

WOELFLE: Haiti is central to Constant's work, and her work is important to Haiti. It provides an alternative to narratives of Haiti as a country in constant chaos. Philogene says this can be seen in Constant's piece about the catastrophic earthquake that hit Haiti in 2010.

PHILOGENE: She's saying that, yes, there is suffering in Haiti, but also, look, there's also people helping people. There's also people understanding and honoring the dead.

WOELFLE: Many hands go into creating this art. Constant's success allows her to employ more assistants and bring more apprentices into her studio. And Philogene says that the show's catalog is especially important because scholars can use it to advance the study of Caribbean art.

PHILOGENE: It inserts her into the art historical canon, a canon that we know oftentimes has left Black people out, people of color out, queer people, etc.

WOELFLE: The exhibition also honors the labor of working-class artists who exist outside the traditional world of contemporary art.

For NPR News, I'm Alice Woelfle. Transcript provided by NPR, Copyright NPR.

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