Sweet, earthy, nutty: 3 recipes rooted in parsnips

• Parsnip and leek soup with parsnip chips
• Parsnip and dill pancakes with sour cream topping
• Spiced parsnip cupcakes with maple cream frosting

“Are they white carrots?” the woman at the farmers market asked as I reached for a handful of parsnips. I totally understood her confusion. They are a beige, carrot-shaped root vegetable that looks like a sister or cousin to carrots. I explain that it’s a parsnip, a root vegetable that is both sweet, nutty and earthy tasting. “I’ve never tried them,” she says, all interest piqued. “What do you do with them?” And then I began a litany of possibilities. And suddenly I’m the president of the parsnip fan club: “They’re amazing. They work well in savory and sweet dishes. You can roast them, steam them, mash them, add them to soups, grate them for pancakes, muffins, cupcakes, cakes…” Before I was done with my list, she had grabbed a generous handful of parsnips to bring home.

Parsnips are showing up in restaurants and farmers’ markets this time of year. Many farmers winter them over in the ground and, at the first sign of spring, they are harvested. Parsnips are particularly sweet when they winter over (the natural sugars are at their peak), and many believe this is the best time of year to eat them. (I understand that spring is still a long way away in many parts of the country, but it’s coming!)

It turns out that parsnips, a member of the apiaceae family, are full of Vitamin C and potassium, rich in antioxidants and a great source of fiber.

Here are three new recipes that show the vast range you can find in a parsnip: first, a light, yet comforting leek and parsnip soup topped with parsnip “chips.” Next, there’s parsnip and dill pancakes with sour cream topping that works well for breakfast, lunch or dinner. And finally, a sweet showcase for parsnips: Spiced parsnip cupcakes topped with maple cream cheese frosting (think of carrot cake but in cupcake form with more nuance).

Parsnip and leek soup with parsnip ‘chips’

Sweet, earthy flavors emerge in this simple soup when parsnips are cooked with leeks and simmered with vegetable or chicken broth. The pureed soup is topped with crisp, thinly sliced parsnip “chips,” finely chopped chives and hazelnuts if you like. Warm, comforting and filled with the promise of spring.

You can make this soup vegan by using all olive oil and no butter or cream. Serves 4 to 6.

/ Kathy Gunst/Here & Now

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Kathy Gunst/Here & Now

INGREDIENTS

• 1 tablespoon olive oil
• 1 teaspoon butter, or another teaspoon olive oil
• 1 large or 2 small leeks, dark green ends removed, and white and pale greens sections sliced lengthwise, washed, and then thinly sliced
• Salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 1 pound parsnips, peeled and cut into 1-inch pieces
• 4 cups vegetable or chicken broth
• ¼ cup heavy cream, optional
• Optional garnishes: ¼ cup finely chopped fresh chives or scallions and ½ cup chopped skinned hazelnuts or your favorite nut

Parsnip chips

• 2 medium parsnips, peeled and cut into thin slices
• 1 ½ tablespoons olive oil
• Salt and freshly ground black pepper

INSTRUCTIONS

• In a medium-sized pot, heat the oil and butter over low heat. Stir in the leeks, salt and pepper. Cook, covered, for 10 minutes. Remove the lid and stir in the parsnips and cook, stirring, for 2 minutes. Raise the heat to high and add the broth; bring to a boil. Once boiling, reduce the heat to medium-low, partially cover and cook for about 15 minutes, or until parsnips are tender when tested with a fork or small sharp knife. Remove from the heat and let cool for 5 minutes.
• Meanwhile, make the parsnip chips: Preheat the oven to 425 degrees. Place the sliced parsnips on a small cookie sheet or roasting pan and toss with the oil, salt and pepper. Bake for about 10 to 15 minutes, or until crisp on the edges and turning golden brown and looking crisp. Remove from the oven. The chips will keep crisp for about an hour.
• Using a blender, food processor or handheld immersion blender, puree the soup in batches. Return to the pot and taste for seasoning. Heat over low heat until simmering.  Serve topped with a few parsnip chips, chives and nuts.

Parsnip and dill pancakes with sour cream topping

You can put together these pancakes in under 30 minutes. They work well for breakfast, lunch or dinner. Grated parsnips are mixed with fresh dill, egg, a touch of flour and finely chopped scallions. Topped with a dollop of sour cream, fresh dill and a thin slice of lemon, they show off parsnips’ full range of flavors. Serves 4 to 6. (You’ll want more than two!)

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INGREDIENTS

• 1 pound parsnips, peeled and grated on the largest hole of a box grater, about 2 cups grated
• 2 thin scallions, very finely chopped (white and green parts)
• 2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh dill or fennel fronds
• 3 tablespoons flour
• Salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 2 small eggs or 1 large
• About ¼ cup olive, avocado or vegetable oil

Garnishes:

• 1 cup sour cream
• ⅓ cup finely chopped dill or fennel fronds
• 1 lemon or Meyer lemon, cut into very thin slices and cut in half

INSTRUCTIONS

• To make the pancakes: Preheat the oven to 250 degrees.
• In a large bowl, mix the grated parsnips with the scallions, dill, flour, salt and pepper. Add the eggs to the center of the mixture and, using a fork, whisk the eggs into the pancake mixture.
• In a large heavy skillet, heat half the oil over medium-high heat. If you want to use two skillets, divide the oil between the two. Use a ¼ cup measuring cup to form the pancakes. Add the pancake to the hot oil, a few at a time, being careful not to crowd the skillet, and cook for 3 minutes. Gently flip the pancake and flatten slightly using a spatula and cook for another 3 to 4 minutes or until crisp and golden and cooked through. Drain on paper towels or a clean paper grocery bag. Keep warm on an ovenproof plate in the preheated oven.
• Repeat with the remaining batter, adding more oil if needed.
• Serve hot, within 30 minutes, topped with sour cream, dill and lemon wedges. Makes about 12 two-inch pancakes.

Spiced parsnip cupcakes with maple cream frosting

I am a huge fan of carrot cake. But I wanted to think outside the box and wondered: what if you used all the great elements of carrot cake, but instead of carrot, substituted parsnips?  Use the warm spice mixture of cinnamon, ginger, nutmeg and allspice, but rely on the earthy sweetness of parsnips. These cupcakes have all the appeal of a carrot cake but they’re small and cute and topped with a maple syrup and cream cheese frosting, then decorated with crystallized ginger.

The cupcakes can be made several hours ahead of time, loosely covered and refrigerated until ready to serve. Makes 12 cupcakes.

INGREDIENTS

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For the parsnip cupcakes:

• Baking spray for the pans or cupcake liners
• 1 cup walnut pieces
• 1 ½ cups (180 grams) all-purpose flour
• ¾ cup sugar
• 2 tablespoons finely chopped crystallized ginger
• 2 teaspoons baking powder
• 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
• ½ teaspoon ground ginger
• ½ teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg
• ½ teaspoon fine salt
• ¼ teaspoon ground allspice
• 3 large eggs
• ½ cup safflower or vegetable oil
• ½ cup buttermilk*
• 4 to 5 parsnips (11 ounces), peeled and shredded on the widest opening of a cheese grater

For the frosting :

• 8 ounces cream cheese, at room temperature
• 6 tablespoons unsalted butter, at room temperature
• ¾ teaspoon pure vanilla extract
• ¼ cup confectioners’ sugar
• ¼ cup maple syrup
• 2 tablespoons crystallized ginger, cut into thin slivers

Pro tip: If you don’t have buttermilk or don’t feel like buying it, you can make a substitution by mixing ½ cup milk with 1 ½ teaspoons lemon juice and letting it sit for 5 minutes.

INSTRUCTIONS

• Spray 12 cupcake molds with the vegetable oil, making sure to grease the bottom and sides or drop in cupcake liners. Arrange a rack in the middle of the oven and heat to 350 degrees.
• Spread the walnuts out on a baking sheet and toast on the middle rack until lightly toasted, about 8 minutes. Cool. Finely chop half the walnuts and set aside; coarsely chop the remaining walnuts.
• For the cupcakes: In a large bowl, whisk the flour, sugar, crystallized ginger, and baking powder. Add the cinnamon, ground ginger, nutmeg, salt, and allspice and combine.
• In a separate bowl, whisk the eggs. Add the oil and buttermilk and whisk to combine evenly. Add the egg mixture to the flour mixture along with the parsnips and the coarsely chopped walnuts (reserve the finely chopped walnuts for decoration) and stir until well combined. Divide the batter between the 12 cupcake molds, filling each about two-thirds full. Bake on the middle rack until a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean, 20 to 25 minutes. Cool the cupcakes on a rack for 5 to 10 minutes, then remove from the tin. (Use a flat kitchen knife to help release them if you haven’t used liners)
• Meanwhile, make the frosting: Working with an electric mixer, beat the cream cheese and butter in a large bowl, whisk together until fully blended and light, about 1 minute. Add the vanilla and slowly add the sugar, a few tablespoons at a time, making sure to fully incorporate before adding more. Add the maple syrup and mix until smooth. The frosting will be thinner than a regular frosting; if it feels too thin, refrigerate for about 30 minutes to firm it up, or add more sugar, if desired.
• Generously frost the cupcakes on top, sprinkle the top with reserved walnuts and add a sliver or two of the candied ginger.

This article was originally published on WBUR.org.

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