Sunni militants claimed vast swaths of Iraq last month, thanks largely to the collapse of the Iraqi army.

But three weeks later, the army has been able to win back some territory. The gains come after a call to arms by Shiite religious leaders in the holy city of Najaf, where deep emotion and symbolism are inspiring Shiite volunteers.

Najaf is home to the ancient Valley of Peace cemetery, which seems crowded. Miles of desert stretch under blistering sun, the gilded domes of mausoleums pressed up against the dusty headstones of the ordinary dead.

Shiite Muslims traditionally bury their loved ones in this cemetery. And as crowded as it is, more bodies are flooding in: Young men, with flags draped over their coffins to show they died in battle.

Muhsin al-Awasy speaks as his cousin's body is ceremonially washed.

"He was a youth, not married, 20 years old, from a special forces battalion in Mosul. They withdrew to Samarra," Awasy says. "At a checkpoint there he was hit with a mortar round and died with one or two others."

The Valley of Peace in Najaf, where millions of Shiite Muslims are buried, is one of the largest cemeteries in the world. The crowded cemetery is preparing to receive more burials, as Shiite volunteers fight and die in Iraq's ongoing conflict.

The Valley of Peace in Najaf, where millions of Shiite Muslims are buried, is one of the largest cemeteries in the world. The crowded cemetery is preparing to receive more burials, as Shiite volunteers fight and die in Iraq's ongoing conflict.

Joseph Eid/AFP/Getty Images

As the women weep and pray, the male relatives cluster round to say they've been to many soldiers' funerals recently — and they'll go to many more, until the Sunni militants trying to take over the country are pushed out.

"Even though he died," Awasy says of his cousin, "all of us are ready to volunteer."

About a month ago, Iraq's armed forces were collapsing. Maybe a third of the army fled as Sunni fighters led by extremists seized city after city. But now, tens of thousands of men are volunteering, swearing to fight and die for their country. The army can now push back in some places, like the city of Tikrit, and the mourners say they're proud.

"The Iraqi army is making progress," Awasy says. "I hear they have liberated Tikrit this morning."

While the Iraqi army has been fighting in Tikrit in recent days, most reports point to a city that's still contested.

Still, a key to this turnaround is in Najaf, a quiet city where Shiite clerics hold court around a golden shrine. When the army fell apart, the most eminent Shiite cleric, Grand Ayatollah Ali al-Sistani, called on men to fight. In doing so, he broke with Iraqi tradition that religious leaders stay out of politics.

Iraqi Shiites in Najaf brandish their weapons and a poster of the Grand Ayatollah Ali al-Sistani, who broke with Iraqi tradition and called on Shiites to fight the current insurgency.

Iraqi Shiites in Najaf brandish their weapons and a poster of the Grand Ayatollah Ali al-Sistani, who broke with Iraqi tradition and called on Shiites to fight the current insurgency.

Haidar Hamdani/AFP/Getty Images

One younger cleric, Ali al-Najafi, explains that Sistani was forced to intervene because the military is ineffective and political leaders are uninspiring.

"They were not prepared to thwart this attack," Najafi says. "It became evident that there were two problems: a problem with organization and a problem with morale. The soldier or the fighter couldn't find the right motive to stand strong and fight."

Najafi hints that Iraq's highly-paid politicians are depraved, like Saddam Hussein, while the clerics are different. People respect the clergy, so they responded to the call to fight.

But Najafi knows there's a risk that a call coming from the Shiite establishment could be used as justification for the sectarian slaughter of Sunnis.

"Yes, there is concern that the situation will be taken advantage of to fuel the sectarian crisis," he says, "and we are making a great effort, and even giving our blood, to make sure this division does not come to Iraq."

Najafi says Shiite clerics are reaching out to Sunni ones and stressing to fighters that it's just as important to defend Sunni areas. But the recruitment drive does have sectarian overtones; many men have joined not the army, but rather irregular Shiite militias.

In the heart of the graveyard, the flag of one such militia flutters in a roasting wind. Each armed group has its own space here. In one, the wind peels up the corners of posters held down with bricks on new graves. In another, two fresh mounds lie side by side.

The coffin of an Iraqi fighter, who reportedly died fighting with the al-Haq militia alongside government forces, is carried prior to burial in Najaf this March. Najaf's clerics have called for more Shiites to take up arms.

The coffin of an Iraqi fighter, who reportedly died fighting with the al-Haq militia alongside government forces, is carried prior to burial in Najaf this March. Najaf's clerics have called for more Shiites to take up arms.

Haidar Hamdani/AFP/Getty Images

Each grave has pictures on it: Shiite shrines, the Shiite imams Ali and Hussein, Shiite ayatollahs from Iran.

Salah al-Mohammad has come to the cemetery to wash his brother's grave in rosewater and burn incense. His brother died fighting in Syria with the Asaib Ahl al-Haq Shiite militia, defending a Shiite shrine. Now, Mohammad is joining the army.

"Just 40 days ago I lost my brother, but now I've volunteered, too," he says. "When the clerics called us to volunteer, we did."

Despite the best efforts of clerics and politicians to paint the battle as patriotic and nonsectarian, Mohammad sees things in starkly Shiite terms. He says he's going to fight for the Shiite imams, and he calls the mainly Sunni insurgency infidels.

Next to the freshly filled graves are three more, still empty. The bodies will come soon, say the gravediggers. There's space in the plot for many more.

Copyright 2015 NPR. To see more, visit http://www.npr.org/.

Transcript

DAVID GREENE, HOST:

It's MORNING EDITION from NPR News. I'm David Greene.

RENEE MONTAGNE, HOST:

And I'm Renee Montagne. Sunni militants were able to claim vast swaths of Iraq last month, largely because the Iraqi army collapsed. Three weeks later, the army has won back some territory. That came after a call to arms by Shiite religious leaders in the holy city of Najaf. NPR's Alice Fordham visited the ancient, sprawling cemetery there and reports on the deep emotion and symbolism fueling the Shiite response.

UNIDENTIFIED WOMAN 1: (Speaking foreign language, crying).

ALICE FORDHAM, BYLINE: The Valley of Peace cemetery seems crowded. Miles of desert stretch under blistering sun, the gilded domes of mausoleums pressed up against the dusty headstones of the ordinary dead.

UNIDENTIFIED WOMAN 2: (Praying in foreign language).

FORDHAM: It's here that Shiite Muslims traditionally bury their loved ones. And as crowded as it is, more bodies are flooding in these days - young men with flags draped over their coffins to show they just died in battle. Muhsin al Awasy speaks to me as his cousin's body is ceremonially washed.

MUHSIN AL AWASY: (Through translator) He was a youth, not married, 20 years old, from a special forces battalion in Mosul. They withdrew to Samarra. At a checkpoint there, he was hit with a mortar round and died with one or two others.

FORDHAM: As the women weep and pray, the male relatives cluster around to say they've been to many soldiers' funerals recently. And they'll go to many more until Sunni militants trying to take over the country are pushed out.

AWASY: (Through translator) Even though he died, all of us are ready to volunteer.

FORDHAM: About a month ago, Iraq's armed forces were collapsing. Maybe a third of the army fled as Sunni fighters, led by extremists, seized swaths of territory. But now, tens of thousands of men are volunteering, swearing to fight and die for their country. The army can now push back in some places, like the city of Tikrit. The mourners say they're proud.

AWASY: (Through translator) The Iraqi army is making progress. I hear they've liberated Tikrit this morning.

FORDHAM: The key to this turnaround lies not with military commanders or politicians, but here in the quiet city of Najaf, where Shiite clerics hold court around a golden shrine. When the army fell apart, the most eminent cleric, Grand Ayatollah Ali al-Sistani, called on men to fight. In doing so, he broke with Iraqi tradition that religious leaders stay out of politics. One younger cleric, Ali al Najafi, explains Sistani was forced to intervene because the military is ineffective and political leaders uninspiring.

ALI AL NAJAFI: (Through translator) They were not prepared to thwart this attack. It became evident that there were two problems - a problem with organization and a problem with morale. The soldier or the fighter couldn't find the right motive to stand strong and fight.

FORDHAM: Najafi hints that Iraq's highly paid politicians are depraved, like Saddam Hussein, whereas the clerics are like him. He receives me in a simple, whitewashed office where he's giving advice to a visiting woman. People respect the clergy, so they responded to the call to fight. But he knows there's a risk that a call coming from the Shiite establishment could be used as a justification for the sectarian slaughter of Sunnis.

NAJAFI: (Through translator) Yes, there is concern that this situation will be taken advantage of to fuel the sectarian crisis. And we are making a great effort, and even giving our blood, to make sure this division does not come to Iraq.

FORDHAM: Najafi says Shiite clerics are reaching out to Sunni ones and stressing to fighters that it's just as important to defend Sunni areas. But in reality, the recruitment drive does have sectarian overtones. Many men have joined not the army, but irregular Shiite militias.

(FLAG WAVING)

FORDHAM: In the heart of the graveyard, the flag of one such militia flutters in a roasting, desert wind. Each armed group has its own space here. In one of them, the wind peels up the corners of posters held down with bricks on new graves. In another, two fresh mounds lay by side-by-side. Each grave has pictures on it of Shiite shrines, the Shiite imams Ali and Hussein, Shiite ayatollahs from Iran.

SALAH AL MOHAMMAD: (Crying).

FORDHAM: Salah al Mohammad sobs as he washes his brother's grave in rosewater and burns incense. He died fighting in Syria with the Asaib al Haq Shiite militia, defending a Shiite shrine. Now, Mohammad is joining the army.

MOHAMMAD: (Through translator) Just 40 days ago, I lost my brother. But now I've volunteered, too. When the clerics called us to volunteer, we did.

FORDHAM: Despite the best efforts of clerics and politicians to paint the battle as patriotic and non-sectarian, Mohammad sees things in starkly Shiite terms. He says he's going to fight for the Shiite imams, and he calls the mainly Sunni insurgency infidels. Alongside freshly filled graves are three more, still empty. The bodies will come soon, say the gravediggers. There's space in the plot for many more. Alice Fordham, NPR News. Transcript provided by NPR, Copyright NPR.

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